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A couple ascend up the escalator leading to the 10th floor of the Flags department store, this tip-top section housing part of Tower Records Shinjuku. The young man’s eyes lock on to something and he lets out a “whoa.” Steps ahead of the woman behind him, he speed walks to a display of CDs.
“Check it out…Kendrick Lamar!”
They giddily look at jewel cases of GNX, deciding they need to get a copy for a friend back home. Throughout the Tower Records’ 10th floor, similar scenes centered around physical media play out. Non-Japanese visitors hover around displays for Linkin Park and Nujabes and “city pop.” I hear multiple languages while walking through the aisles — English, Chinese, uhhhhh something European. And the signs attached to product are written in English, offering insight into local sounds or simply providing clarity for what the customer is looking at. I imagine, though, the shopper already knows.
Not long ago, this Tower Records boasted four floors of physical music, but the arrival of a biggie-sized GU clothes retailer ate up the first two. Still, despite less overall space, the Shinjuku outlet of the enduring chain is quite full on a rainy and cold Wednesday afternoon. The ninth floor houses domestic releases (plus a K-pop corner), while one up leans towards international sounds (plus an “anime and game music” space). Both feel plenty busy…including with people who appear to be visiting Japan as part of a vacation.
Even if I’m grossly generalizing — how many people saw me and thought “look at that tourist” — walking around Tower Records Shinjuku offers a snapshot of Tokyo in 2025, a city embracing and sometimes putting up with inbound visitors galore. Here’s a store offering an experience perceived to be a Japan-only offering…while being fully aware that is what it’s doing.
Welcome to the era of the “Tourism Music Shop.”